Six Days in Provence
WHERE TO STAY? ANSOUS, PROVENCE
View from our VRBO rental.
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We enjoyed a delightful stay in the quaint village of Ansouis in the picturesque Luberon region. Opting for a rental home through VRBO, we were pleasantly surprised by the house’s perfect blend of old-world charm and modernity. One of the pleasant aspects of medieval towns is the absence of cars within their cobblestone and narrow streets. Instead, you'll find a designated village parking lot just outside the entrance. In Ansouis, the village parking lot was just a few minutes’ walk, allowing us to conveniently park our car rental.
Ansouis itself was a true gem, brimming with medieval charm. One highlight was the privately-owned 12th-century medieval castle, which you can visit through a guided tour (sometimes). Our stay in Ansouis proved to be a peaceful retreat and an amazing home base from which to explore Provence.
Since this is a 6 day itinerary, we were able to visit many villages. Here’s a list and feel free to jump to the section you want to read.
DAY 2 - ABBAYE DE SILVANCE, AVIGNON
DAY 4 - PONT DU GARD, GARDON RIVER (le Gard ou Gardon)
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DAY ONE – EXPLORING THE LUBERON REGION
Cucuron Market in Luberon
From the Cucuron Market
We started the day on a slow pace, starting with visiting the Cucuron market for lunch, a true feast for the senses! On Tuesdays, this charming market situates itself around the town’s large water pond. Along one side are tables to gather to eat whatever delectable food you just bought. Be careful not to sit at tables meant for the restaurants that are also nearby. The market showcases many local vendors and farmers with their fresh produce, cured meats, all sorts of cheese, herbs and spices, and other specialty food items (honey, olives, tapenade). Local artisans proudly display their wares, offering handmade crafts, and intricate pottery. There are also fresh flowers to purchase. The Cucuron market is not only a place to shop for the freshest produce, but also an immersive cultural experience that transports you to the heart of rural Provence.
Lourmarin
Lourmarin Village
Onward to the town of Lourmarin, our next destination after experiencing the Cucuron market. Lourmarin welcomes visitors with its charming and quaint atmosphere. The architectural style of this village is reminiscent of Provencal beauty, with its creamy-colored buildings and traditional facades. Lourmarin is considered to be one of the most picturesque village in the Luberon area. Lourmarin may be a quieter village compared to others in the Luberon area, but it is certainly not lacking in charm. Here, one can leisurely browse the intriguing shops, sip aromatic coffee, and indulge in the simple pleasure of people-watching. Don't forget to mark your calendar for Friday afternoons, where Lourmarin hosts its smaller, yet equally delightful market.
Albert Camus, the existentialist writer, lived here in the 1950’s and is buried here.
Bonnieux - Pont Julien (Julien Bridge)
Pont Julien (Julien Bridge).
After stopping by at the market and feasting on the food we bought and sipping coffee and taking-in the ambiance of Lourmarin, we found ourselves going to Bonnieux to find Pont Julien (Julien Bridge) – a bridge built between 27 BC and 14 AD. Built with masonry blocks and trimmed with elegant arches, Pont Julien stands as an illustration to the impressive engineering skills of the Romans. Stretching over the Calavon River (which was basically non-existent because of the drought), the bridge offers panoramic views of the surrounding lush countryside. This bridge, which was once the main road used by the Romans connecting Northern Italy to Provence, confirms the enduring legacy of their ingenuity. Even after centuries have passed, it continues to serve its purpose, accommodating modern-day travelers. Truly one of the most remarkable remnants of the Roman Empire's engineering brilliance (along with Pont du Gard, which we cover later).
Roussillon
After Pont Julien, we headed to Roussillon, another must-see village in Luberon, renowned for its distinct ocher cliffs and brick-red buildings. The ochre quarries, once a thriving industry, now serve as a natural wonder showcasing a spectrum of spectacular hues, from fiery oranges to earthy yellows.
There aren’t any parking lots once you enter the village, and the narrow streets make for difficult driving, so we recommend parking your car at one of the several lots at the entries to the village.
Ochre Quarries.
Once you have parked the car, walk through the village to find many lookout points to admire the ochre cliffs. Another noteworthy site is the St. Michel church, built in the 11th century. The church is white, while the rest of the village structures were built using the ochre nearby. The village itself is quaint with many shops and eateries. We enjoyed many of the lookout points. The cliffs were magnificent, especially as the sun was setting casting a golden glow over the colorful facades.
Our first full day in Provence was a whirlwind of activities, even though we started off at a slow pace. Our leisurely morning quickly escalated into a series of adventures as we stumbled upon bustling markets, indulged in delectable local cuisine, and explored quaint villages in the Luberon region.
DAY 2, DISCOVER THE MEDIEVAL HERITAGE OF AVIGNON
ABBAYE DE SILVANCE (SILVACANE ABBEY)
Before heading to Avignon, we went to see the Abbaye de Silvacane, located in La Roque-dAntheron of Provence, a masterpiece of Cistercian architecture. This 12th-century abbey stands as proof to the incredible craftsmanship of its time. The abbey is elegantly simple and austere in its own beautiful way, and impeccably preserved. And silent! We could easily picture monks praying and quietly going about their daily routines.
AVIGNON
Palais des Papes (Palace of the Popes).
From there we went to Avignon, a place that I have been wanting to visit for so long. Steeped in medieval heritage, the city is famous for its remarkable UNESCO-recognized Palais des Papes, a stunning Gothic palace that once served as the seat of the Catholic Church in the 14th century. Its narrow cobblestone streets lined with colorful houses, lively squares adorned with outdoor cafes, and bustling markets enclosed by its medieval walls make Avignon an idyllic destination for a leisurely stroll.
Take a City Walking Tour with Palais des Papes entry.
Other Highlights:
Palace Square (Place du Palais)
Jardin du Rochers des Doms
Place de l'Horloge, dominated by the iconic Town Hall clock tower
Musée du Petit Palais to admire its collection of exquisite medieval and Renaissance art
St. Benezet Bridge
Market Les Halles
DAY THREE, STROLLING THROUGH AIX-EN-PROVENCE
Fountiane de la Rotonde
Aix-en-Provence is another charming destination. First, we strolled through the streets of the city center to discover beautiful historic buildings and elegant squares, like the iconic Cours Mirabeau, once a street for horse-drawn carriages. There are, of course, shopping areas as well for some retail therapy. Make sure to see the largest fountain in the area – Fountaine de la Rotonde. You’ll also find several fountains as you walk through this historic city. Don't miss the opportunity to visit the stunning Cathédrale Saint-Sauveur and admire its intricate architecture. Art enthusiasts can explore the Musée Granet, housing an impressive collection of artworks from various periods, including pieces by Cézanne. For a peaceful escape, head to Parc Jourdan, where you can relax in the shade of plane trees or enjoy a leisurely picnic. We also visited the market and indulged on a few delicacies.
In Summary
Stroll the city and view the many fountains. The largest fountain is Fountaine de la Rotonde at the end of Cours Mirabeau, a street once used by horse-drawn carriages.
Cathedrale Saint-Sauveur
Musee Granet – collections include some of Cezanne’s work.
Parc Jourdan
Outdoor Markets
Take a City Walking Tour of Aix En Provence
ETANG DE LA BONDE
We capped the hot summer day by taking a dip at Etang de la Bonde to cool off. This lake is near our VRBO, so it was an easy stop. Just make sure you come prepared with your beach towel and swimwear. There is public parking just outside and the lake is a favorite of the locals.
DAY FOUR, MARVEL AT PONT DU GARD
Pont du Gard
Pont du Gard, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is an architectural wonder and an iconic Roman aqueduct, a true manifestation of the advanced prowess of Roman engineering. Built over 2,000 years ago, during the reign of Emperor Augustus, Pont du Gard served as a vital lifeline, channeling water across vast distances to the bustling city of Nemausus, present-day Nîmes. Its towering arches span the Gardon River, showing off not only the Romans' mastery of mechanics but also their eye for aesthetic elegance. Constructed using three levels of arched tiers, the impressive structure stands an astonishing 160 feet tall – a remarkable feat considering it was mostly (if not entirely) built without mortar. Each block of limestone fits seamlessly, meticulously interlocking to form this fascinating monument. It served as a vital link in the network of aqueducts that supplied water to public baths, fountains, and private residences throughout the Roman Empire. Despite the fall of the empire, the aqueduct remained functional for centuries, well into the Middle Ages. Countless stories are hidden within the stones of Pont du Gard. It served as a strategic passage for medieval armies, witnessed the birth and demise of civilizations, and stood tall amidst the ravages of war and time. Its inspiring presence is a symbol of the ingenuity of ancient builders, demonstrating that even without modern technology, we were capable of creating structures that met the needs of the people. Its enduring existence is a tribute to the resilience and strength of Roman engineering.
Today, Pont du Gard continues to fascinate visitors from all over the world to learn about the craftsmanship that went into its construction and to discover the engineering genius of the Roman Empire.
GARDON RIVER (le Gard ou Gardon)
After visiting Pont du Gard, we continued on to the river by the aqueduct to swim and enjoy the rest of the day. The river has an amazing view of Pont du Gard and served as a wonderful backdrop, creating a picturesque scene. We reveled in the perfect harmony between history and nature. It was a great way to end the day before heading back to Ansous, our home base in Provence.
Gardon River by Pont du Gard.
DAY FIVE, EXPLORING NIMES
Day 5 took us to Nimes, a city that blends ancient Roman heritage with modern French charm. We started by visiting Maison Carree, a remarkably preserved Roman temple dedicated to imperial worship, completed in 2 AD. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Maison Carree.
The majestic Nimes Arena, also known as the Arenes de Nimes, dates back to the first century AD. This is another well preserved amphitheater, showcasing yet another magnificent display of Roman engineering. With its imposing outer facade of limestone, the arena dominates the cityscape. It has an oval shape, similar to the Colosseum in Rome. One can imagine the fervor of gladiatorial contests and chariot races that once filled this arena with excitement.
Nimes Arena
Jardins de la Fontaine is a public park that highlights two ancient monuments, Temple of Diana and Magne Tower. The Temple of Diana was built in the first century and its function is still being debated by archeologists. The Magne Tower is the oldest Roman monument in Nimes. The sturdy stone walls and winding staircase (140 steps in total) lead to the summit offering a panoramic view of the surrounding landscape. There is also information on panel boards when you reach the top allowing you to imagine what it was like during Roman times in Nimes.
Stroll around the old city and take in the ambiance. The Roman influences are evident, with structures like the iconic Maison Carrée and the magnificent Arènes de Nîmes, two ancient Roman architectural marvels that have stood the test of time. In addition to its architectural splendors, Old Town Nimes offers delightful boutiques, traditional cafés, and vibrant markets that showcase the region's culinary delights.
Two other sites that we didn’t get to see are Nimes Cathedral, catholic church built in the 12th century, and Carre d’Art, a contemporary art museum.
DAY 6, EXPLORING ARLES
Our last full day in Provence took us to Arles.
Arles Market
Our first stop was the Arles Market, open year-round every Wednesdays and Saturdays. This quintessential Provençal market is a sensory feast for the soul. The stalls bristle with an array of fresh produce, artisanal cheese, bread, cured meats, flowers, you name it, they have it. It was a great first stop for us as we savored the different flavors the market had to offer.
One of the must-visit sites is the Roman Amphitheatre, which dates to the 1st century AD and is still used for concerts and cultural events today. This is another UNESCO World Heritage Site. This amphitheater served as a venue for gladiatorial games, spectacles, and public ceremonies. It is an elliptical shape with a seating capacity for approximately 20,000 spectators. After the fall of the Roman Empire in the 5th century, the once great amphitheater transformed into a fortress of sorts. Four towering structures emerged around its perimeter, forming a protective shield against external threats. Inside this newly formed stronghold, over 200 houses were built, 2 chapels, and public squares creating a village within the confines of this arena which persevered until the 18th century when in 1825, it was changed into a national historical monument. Today, tourists can explore the underground passages that once hosted performers and animals, and even attend concerts and events held in this amphitheater.
Roman Amphitheatre
Place de la Republique is a public square with an obelisk at the center. The obelisk, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was built in the 4th century, originally erected at the Roman Circus of Arles. When the circus was abandoned later, the obelisk fell and broke into two pieces. It was rediscovered in 1389 where it was restored and placed here. Later, the fountain was built around it in the 19th century.
Van Gogh's time in Arles was undoubtedly tumultuous, marked by both artistic brilliance and personal struggles. During his emotionally turbulent two-year stay, he created some of his most iconic works. One cannot visit Arles without acknowledging the infamous incident where he cut off his earlobe after a heated argument with Gauguin. You can visit L'Espace Van Gogh, once the hospital where Van Gogh sought treatment during that time. The space now features a garden, inspired by his painting "Le Jardin de l'Hôtel de Dieu."
We also took in Le Café La Nuit, located near the Place de la Republique. This café was the muse behind Van Gogh's renowned painting, "Café Terrace at Night."
That was a full day for us. But there is so much more to explore. Here’s a list of what we weren’t able to see!
Eglise Saint Trophirme Church
Baths of Constantine, a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Take a half day private tour to visit The Roman Theatre of Arles, the Arena, Eglise Saint Trophirme, and the Baths of Constantine. Or a 2 hour private walking tour.
Cryptoportiques
The Alyscamps (Roman and medieval graveyard)
L’Espace Van Gogh
LAST DAY
There was so much more to see in Provence, but we left knowing we carried with us the contentment of having fully satisfied many of our curiosities. Our time spent here was a delightful blend of cultural immersion and pure joie de vivre. We wandered through charming villages, ate delectable cuisine, and learned so much history. We frolicked in the lakes and rivers, finding respite from the heat. We leave with wonderful memories.
Happy Travels!
Zellie, your forever a traveler.
