PRACTICAL TRAVEL GUIDE TO PARIS
INTRO | PRACTICALITIES | GETTING THERE | HOTELS | THINGS TO DO | SPOTLIGHT
Practical Travel Guide to Paris
Introduction and Orientation
Paris is a cosmopolitan city built on monumental boulevards designed by Georges-Eugene Haussmann in the 19th-century that was commissioned by Napoleon in an attempt to modernize the city. Medieval neighborhoods that were deemed overcrowded and unhealthy were demolished in favor of Haussmann’s design. Today, you can see bits and pieces of the old medieval town in certain areas of Paris.
Paris has 20 arrondissements, each having its own mayor and town hall. The first arrondissement begins where the Louvre and Palais Royal are, and it continues in a circular or snail shape fashion from there, ending with the 20th Arrondissement on the far east of Paris.
Most of the famous and notable sights border along the Seine River including the Louvre, Notre Dame, Sainte Chapelle, Musee d’Orsay, Musee de l’Orangerie, Jardin des Tuileries, Palais Royal, Trocadero Plaza, and the Eiffel Tower.
Although Paris is one of the most visited city in the world, and some of the sights are, therefore, extremely crowded during the peak season, it’s easy to get off the beaten track and find quiet spots. Some of our favorites spots included the Jardin de Tuileries, Luxembourg Gardens, and Jardin de Plantes. Locals also tend to go on vacation in mid-to-late August, making the city quieter outside of tourist hot spots.
Side note, the Arc de Triomphe offers one of the best views of the city from above.
Practical Travel Guide to Paris
Travel Tips + Practicalities
****VISA or ETIAS AUTHORIZATION FORM TO ENTER (starts May 2025)
Starting in May 2025, countries that do not need a Visa to enter the Schengen zone will need to obtain a European Travel Information and Authorization System (ETIAS) authorization. These are meant for countries who currently do not require a Visa to enter the Schengen Zone. The Schengen Zone are countries who entered into the Schengen Agreement and European Union.
For a list of countries that will require ETIAS authorization upon arrival, go here. YES, FRANCE (Paris) REQUIRE ETIAS.
For a list of countries belonging to the Schengen zone, go here.
For a list of countries required to obtain ETIAS authorization prior to visiting a country in the Schengen zone, go here.
For a list of countries required to have a VISA to enter the Schengen zone, go here.
To apply, and for information and instructions on the on-line ETIAS application, go here. The on-line process is about 10 minutes. Once approved, the ETIAS authorization form is valid for 3 years.
TAXIS
Taxis can be found at taxi stations or you may reserve a taxi. Click here to find an interactive map of taxi stations in Paris or to reserve a taxi transfer from the airport.
TAP WATER
Yes, tap water in Paris is safe to drink.
CAR RENTAL
You do not need to rent a car in Paris. It has excellent public transit system.
CURRENCY
Euro
LANGUAGE
The official language is French. The French would like you to say “Bonjour” at the beginning of every discourse. Please remember that before launching into a question or a conversation.
TOURIST OFFICE
There is a tourist center located in Gare du Nord near platform 7-9. There is also a tourist center in Hotel de Ville, 29, rue de Rivoli Paris
BIKING
Paris is trying to become more bike friendly and you can see evidence of some of the changes they have made, but it’s not there yet.
PLUG CONVERTER
Plug sockets are Type C and Type F
LUGGAGE STORAGE
There are many luggage storage facilities around Paris. We do not have a specific recommendation. Ask your hotel for recommendation.
LAUNDRY
There are laundry services all around Paris. Use google to find the one nearest to your hotel. Your hotel can typically do laundry for your but it will cost more.
EMBASSIES OR CONSULATE OFFICES, if needed.
List of Embassies and Consulates Around The World - Embassy-info.net
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Practical Travel Guide to Paris
Getting to Paris - Search Flights, Trains, or Buses
If you’re still looking to book your ticket to Paris, Omio is a leading platform in Europe and the UK that allows travelers to compare and book trains, buses, and flights, all in one place.
If you’re not coming from within Europe, Expedia provides competitive pricing on flights.
Practical Travel Guide to Paris
Arriving at Charles de Gaulle Airport or Orly Airport
Arriving at Charles de Gaulle Airport
Upon disembarking the plane:
First stop is the border/passport control check. Make sure you have either an ETIAS or a visa if you are coming from a Non-Schengen country.
Claim your baggage, and if you have not exceeded the duty-free allowance and have nothing to declare, proceed to exit, otherwise, stop by the Custom office if you’re not sure.
If you’re using the public transportation, follow the signs to either the RER B commuter train or the Roissybus. Once in Paris, use the Map app on your smartphone for the best route to your final destination (iPhone map or google map, and choose Directions from your location to your destination, and change the default from car to Transit). In general,
take the RER B commuter train to the Paris Center, and from there you may connect to a Metro train to your final destination. Use the Map app on your smartphone device for the best route to your hotel (iPhone map or google map, and choose Directions from your location to your destination, and change the default from car to Transit). The RER B stops at Gare du Nord, Châtelet–Les Halles,Saint-Michel–Notre-Dame, and Denfert-Rochereau station (see image for all the stops).
or the Roissybus will go from CDG to the Opera Garnier in Paris. From there, use the Map app on your smartphone for the best route to your hotel (iPhone map or google map, and choose Directions from your location to your destination, and change the default from car to Transit). See image below for the Roissybus route.
If you’re taking the taxi, there are official taxi stands outside of the terminal.
Or you may choose to reserve a private shuttle to pick-you up.
RER B commuter train Route Map from CDG Airport. Source: https://www.ratp.fr
RoissyBus Route Map from CDG Airport. Source: https://www.ratp.fr
Purchasing your Transit Ticket
You must purchase a ticket to ride either the train or the Bus. The best option is to purchase a Navigo card at a ticket booth. If there’s a long line, just purchase a single ticket at a ticket machine to get to Paris, and purchase your Navigo card at any metro station in Paris. You can purchase a Navigo card loaded with 10-trips or 20-trips bundle. These tickets will work both in the train and on the bus.
Arriving at Orly Airport
Upon disembarking the plane:
First stop is the border/passport control check. Make sure you have either an ETIAS or a visa if you are coming from a Non-Schengen country.
Claim your baggage, and if you have not exceeded the duty-free allowance and have nothing to declare, proceed to exit, otherwise, stop by the Custom office if you’re not sure.
If you’re using the public transportation, use the Map app on your smartphone for the best route to your final destination (iPhone map or google map, and choose Directions from your location to your destination, and change the default from car to Transit). Follow the signs to Orlyval or Orlybus. In general,
take the Orlyval to take you to the RER B commuter train to the Paris Center, and from there you may connect to a Metro train to your final destination. The RER B stops at Gare du Nord, Châtelet–Les Halles,Saint-Michel–Notre-Dame, and Denfert-Rochereau station. See the image of the Orlyval map route.
or the Orlybus will go from Orly Airport to 3 place Denfert-Rochereau (this is an actual address/stop) in Paris. From there, use the Map app on your smartphone device for the best route to your hotel (iPhone map or google map, and choose Directions from your location to your destination, and change the default from car to Transit). See image below for the Orlybus route.
If you’re taking the taxi, there are official taxi stands outside of the terminal.
Or you may choose to reserve a private shuttle to pick-you up.
Orlyval Route Map to RER-B commuter line. Source: https://www.orlyval.com/
Orlybus Terminal Stops at Orly Airport. Source: https://www.orly-aeroport.fr/orlybus/
CDG Airport and Orly Airport Public Transportation Routes.
Practical Travel Guide to Paris
Orientation to Train Stations, Metro Lines, RER Lines, Transilien (SNCF) trains, and Buses
Train Stations serving International arrivals.
Gare du Nord. Eurostar and Thalys trains depart and arrive from/to Gare du Nord station. These trains are usually coming from London, Belgium, Netherlands, and Germany
Gare de l’Est. International arrivals from Germany. It also serves trains arriving from the suburbs of Paris, as well as eastern France.
Gare de Lyon. International trains arriving from Switzerland and Italy. It also serves trains from other suburban areas of Paris and other regions in France.
Gare d’Austerlitz. International trains arriving from Barcelona. It also serves other regions of France.
Gare de Bercy. International trains arriving from Italy and Burgundy
Gare Montparnasse. International trains arriving from Madrid, and other regions of France.
The Metro Lines
The Metro lines are the local trains serving the Paris metropolitan area. Metro lines are numbered from 1 to 14. It is operated by RATP.
The RER Lines
The RER lines are high-speed trains serving the suburbs of Paris but it makes a few stops within the city center. The RER lines are lettered from A to E. Operation of the RER lines is shared by both the RATP and SNCF train operators.
The Transilien (SNCF) Trains
SNCF operates all the regional trains in France except for the Metro lines which is ran by RATP. If you’re travelling from Paris to a different city in France or Europe, you will need to purchase your tickets from SNCF.
Train Route Map for Paris Click on the map to see routes. Best way to plan your route to your destination is by using the Map app on your smartphone. Map Source: https://www.ratp.fr/en/plans
Practical Travel Guide to Paris
Arriving by Train or Bus
Arriving by Train or Bus from any Station
If you’re using the public transportation, the best way to find your public transportation route is by using the Map App on your smartphone device. Open your iPhone or Google map, choose Directions from your location to your destination, and change the default from car to Transit option.
All the major train stations with international arrivals will have a connection to a Metro or Bus line in the station or near the station.
If you’re taking the taxi, there are official taxi stand outside each station. Make sure to ignore people offering you a taxi ride for a flat fee. Everything is metered.
Alternatively, you may also reserve a private shuttle for pick up or use an Uber.
Practical Travel Guide to Paris
Purchasing your Ticket
Tickets for the Public Transit
You must first purchase a physical Navigo Card (cost is €2) at a ticket agent booth located at every metro station or at the airport and purchase it with a prepaid pack of trips (10-trip bundle or 20-trip bundle). (See image Navigo Easy). **Once you have a physical Navigo Card, you can reload it using the ticket machines located at every metro station.
Alternatively, if the line is too long, you can purchase a single paper ticket at a ticket machine - you can purchase 10-single tickets or more at a time. (see image Ticket-t+). We found that the magnetic strip on these paper tickets get easily de-magnetized and required us to go to the ticket agent to revalidate the ticket to make it usable. **Not preferred and the paper tickets are being phased out.
There are other types of tickets to purchase, but the two listed above are the most practical for tourists staying within the metro area of Paris.
You need to tap the Navigo card at the station portal upon entry or insert your Ticket-t+ at the station portal upon entry.
Navigo Card. Click image to enlarge.
Paper Ticket t+. Click image to enlarge. **Not preferred. The paper ticket gets easily de-magnetized, making it unreadable to machines, and it required us to ask the ticket booth agent to revalidate to make it usable. This ticket is being phased out.
Practical Travel Guide to Paris
Getting Around by Metro, RER lines, Bus, or Boat
By Metro, RER, or Bus
Using the public transportation in Paris is easy to navigate with the help of your iPhone map or Google map. This is the best way to find the fastest and up-to-date route.
Open your iPhone or Google map,
Choose Directions, use your current Location and type-in your desired Destination,
Change the default from car to Transit option.
It should give you directions to the nearest Metro
The directions will tell you toward which Direction to board the train, so pay attention.
It will list the stops and where you need to get off.
And a walking direction after exiting the station to your destination.
That is it! It could not be any easier.
Train Route Map for Paris Click on the map to see routes. Best way to plan your route to your destination is by using the Map app on your smartphone. Map Source: https://www.ratp.fr/en/plans
By Boat
We absolutely recommend riding the hop-on and hop-off ferry that goes along the Seine River. The Batobus Ferry is the only ferry line allowed to do the hop-on and hop-off. The loop takes about 2 hours if you never disembark, and it stops about 15 minutes at each stop. We recommend disembarking at each stop or at as many sites as you can. Start early or get a two day pass. Prices and departure times are on their website.
The Batobus Ferry Stops
Source: https://www.batobus.com/en
We research and visit all our hotel recommendations. Learn more about how we select our hotel recommendations. If you book something through our affiliated links, the booking platform may share a portion of their commission with us.
Practical Travel Guide to Paris
Hotel Recommendations
Located in the 8th Arrondissement, near the Avenue Champs-Elysees, this hotel embodies the stately elegance of Paris. It boasts beautiful spacious rooms with hardwood floors and modern bathrooms, as well as a spa for the ultimate relaxation after a day of exploration. A restaurant and bar on-site makes for a perfect evening.
Address: 18 Rue Clément Marot, 75008 Paris, France
Family-friendly. Connecting rooms available. Bar and Restaurant on the property. Room service available. Spa and Pool. Lift available. View booking site for a complete list of amenities.
A small garden cafe greets you upon entry at the gate in this lovely historic hotel located in the 5th Arrondissement near Notre Dame. Well appointed rooms, hardwood flooring, and updated bathrooms adds to the comfort and elegance of the rooms. An extensive international breakfast buffet is served to fuel your mornings. A fantastic location in the Latin Quarter makes this hotel a fabulous choice.
Address: 7 Rue Hotel Colbert, Paris, France
Family-friendly. Bar and Restaurant on the property. Room service available. Lift available. View booking site for a complete list of amenities.
Discover this boutique hotel offering spacious rooms with modern amenities and furnishings in the 7th Arrondissement near the Eiffel Tower, the Champ-de-Mars the Esplanade des Invalides, and the charming street of Rue Cler. Take pleasure in the comfort of pristine rooms with hardwood floors and updated bathrooms, as well as friendly staff to help you with your needs. Near many restaurants and cafes, as well as public transits, this hotel is the perfect location to launch your adventure in Paris.
Address: 37 Avenue De La Motte Picquet, 7th arr., 75007 Paris, France
Family-friendly. Bar and Restaurant on the property. Airport Shuttle available. Room Service View booking site for a complete list of amenities
This contemporary hotel featuring rooms with a view of the Eiffel Tower and perfectly located among many restaurants and cafes in the 7th Arrondissement is an excellent starting point to your journey. Find your ultimate relaxation by mixing literary interest with drinks in hand at the library bar located on the ground floor. Super friendly and helpful staff are always available. Guests can enjoy clean rooms and updated bathrooms.
Address: 29, Avenue De Tourville, 7th arr., 75007 Paris, France
Family-friendly. Facilities for disabled guests. Bar and Restaurant on the property. Airport Shuttle available. Fitness Center. View booking site for a complete list of amenities.
Opened in April 2023 in the 16th Arrondissement, this hotel is built with the ultimate comfort in mind. The rooms are stylishly modern with pops of vibrancy, tall windows, and warm hardwood floors in chevron patterns mirroring the charm of a Parisian elegant vibe. The staircase, should you choose not to use the lift, winds around to the ground floor with metal black guard rails and cascading midcentury modern globe light fixtures. The decor is suggestive of a time gone-by. A small boutique hotel offering 31 rooms and 3 suites, a friendly staff, and everything new - the Padam Hotel is an outstanding choice in the 16th Arrondissement.
Address: 9 Rue Jean Giraudoux, 16th arr., 75116 Paris, France
Family-friendly. Bar and Restaurant on the property. Lift available. Room Service. Wellness space. View booking site for a complete list of amenities.
This small 20-room boutique hotel is situated in Ile St. Louis, steps away from Notre Dame, in a quieter neighborhood of the 4th Arrondissement. The rooms, moderate in size, are decorated in warm tones, wooden floors, exposed wooden beams, tall windows, and updated bathrooms in harmonizing tones reflect the rich elegance of Paris and give it a calm ambiance. There are plenty of restaurants and cafes nearby, away from busy tourist areas.
Address: 75 Rue Saint-Louis en L'ile, 4th arr., 75004 Paris, France
Family-friendly. Facilities for the disabled guests. Lift available. Airport Shuttle. View booking site for a complete list of amenities. Image of bathroom is for disabled guest.
Nestled in a quieter street of the 8th Arrondissement is a 25-room boutique hotel inspired by nature. Each room is distinctively adorned with themed wallpaper in calm colors illustrating nature to give a peaceful and soothing ambiance. Every room has wooden floors and updated bathrooms to elevate your comfort. The staff are friendly and offer a warm hospitality.
Address: 15 Rue de Penthièvre, 8th arr., 75008 Paris, France
Family-friendly. Lift available. Bar. Not wheelchair accessible. View booking site for a complete list of amenities.
Situated in the charming and quaint street of Rue Cler where specialty shops, restaurants, and cafes are in abundance, this 26-room boutique hotel in the 7th Arrondissement was a wonderful find. Updated and stylishly designed rooms with clean lines, warm tones, and the natural wood floors give a soothing atmosphere. The juxtaposition between the vibrant cityscape outside and the serene ambiance within creates a delightful contrast.
Address: 15 Rue de Penthièvre, 8th arr., 75008 Paris, France
Family-friendly. Lift available. Bar. Not wheelchair accessible. View booking site for a complete list of amenities.
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Practical Travel Guide to Paris
Things To Do
Top Things to Do and See in Paris
We recommend purchasing your tickets 3-4 weeks in advance during high tourist season (June to August).
The Louvre Museum. One of the greatest museums and grandest monument in the world. It houses some of the finest European paintings (da Vinci, Caravaggio, El Greco, Delacroix, Titian to name a few).
Musee d’Orsay. An old railway station redesigned to be a museum in 1986, Musee d’Orsay contains many impressive Impressionist and Post-Impressionist artwork. It covers the period of 1848 to 1914, picking up where the Louvre left off.
Notre-Dame exemplifies one of the best Gothic architecture in the world. Construction began in 1163 and completed around mid-1300’s. In the early 1800’s, Notre-Dame went through a major restoration project. In April 2019, Notre-Dame caught fire during another restoration work causing much damage to the roof above the stone vaulted ceilings. It is currently under reconstruction with work scheduled for completion in 2024.
The Eiffel Tower originally built for the 1889 World Fair was the tallest structure in the world at the time. Today, the Eiffel Tower is used for meteorological and astronomical observations, as well as a base for many antennas and cellular tower. It will be painted gold for the 2024 Olympics. Buy your tickets 60-days in advance as it sells out fast during high tourist season.
Champs-Elysees is the best known grand boulevard of Paris. Champs-Elysees Avenue branches out from one of the 12 spokes that radiate out from the Arc de Triompe, better known as place de l’Etoile. It is lined with high-end shops and restaurants. More impressive from afar with the dense trees seemingly clumped together, but close-up, it is yet another grand boulevard with a lot of traffic.
Arc de Triomphe was built as a celebration of the achievements of the French military. It also offers one of the best views of Paris and probably easier to get last minute tickets to than the Eiffel Tower.
Montmartre (Moulin Rouge and Sacre-Coeur Basilica). The best approach to Sacre-Coeur Basilica is through the charming streets of Montmartre and discover the many shops and bakeries. Start at the Moulin Rouge and wind your way up to Sacre-Coeur via rue Lepic (and map your way to the Basilica). You may also go directly to the Sacre-Coeur by taking the Funicular directly from the bottom of the hill to the top, but be forewarned that the lines can be long and challenging. If you’re able, walking is the best option. You may also take a bus. You can plan public transportation options through your smartphone.
Seine River. Must stroll along the Seine River. A lot of the sights are along the river.
Take the Ferry Ride. We recommend the hop-on and hop-off ferry and get off at each stop. It’s a great way to see the city and what’s along the Seine River.
Sainte-Chapelle, completed in 1248, is the only part of the old medieval Palais de la Cite that remains today in its entirety. It was built for King Lous IX to hold Passion relics such as the Crown of Thorns. Built in the Gothic style architecture.
Versailles, a chateau (as commonly referred to luxurious palatial residences that was not located in urban settings) where monarchs of France once lived until the Revolution of 1789, opened as a museum in 1837. It has been restored and gone many renovations over the years. It is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Food Tours. If you’re a food lover and you love savoring classic French culinary to amazing patisseries, discover a food tour that’s right up your palate.
Walking Tours. Walk through Paris with a guide and learn about its history and culture.
Seine River
The Louvre Museum
Additional Things to Do and See if Time Allows
Musee de l’Orangerie is a renowned art museum and if you’re an art lover, then you should move this museum to the “must do” list. Situation in the Jardin des Tuileries in the 1st arrondissement of Paris, France, it is celebrated for its exceptional collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist masterpieces, with a it’s prized exhibit being Claude Monet’s “Water Lilies” series.
Jardin des Tuileries. You’ll probably walk through this park on your way to other sites along the Seine. At some point, pause and take it all in. It’s a beautiful garden.
Luxembourg Gardens. Probably Paris’ most famous garden, it is adjacent to the Palais du Luxembourg where the French Senate meets. It was originally created for Marie de Medicis (widow of Henry IV) to reminder her of her home, Pitti Palace in Florence.
Disneyland in Paris. It is less than one-hour train ride from the city center of Paris. There are plenty of activities for kids and adults alike in the self-describe Happiest Place in the World.
Army Museum. One of the largest Army museums in the world. There are artifacts and memorabilia from battles and wars dating back to the 13th century. Detailed descriptions of specific battles and vivid depictions of what life in the war was like for the average soldier. Extensive focus on World War I. **Closed currently for renovation. Expected opening June 2024.
Rodin Museum. An extensive collection of Rodin’s art in different mediums displayed both inside and outside in a recently renovated building. Many thinks it should be top 5 Museums to see in Paris.
Jardin de Plantes and Zoo. It’s a botanical garden with a zoo, originally a medicinal herb garden in 1626. There are other galleries on the property - Gallery of Geology and Minerology, Paleontology and Anatomy Gallery. and Gallery of Evolution.
Pantheon was built as gratitude to St. Genevieve for curing King Louis XV of illness and to highlight the unity of the Church and the State during a time where there was great fraction between the Jesuits and the Jansenists.
Pompidou Centre. A museum with a large collection of modern art, including works by Joan Miro, Andy Warhol, Vassily Kandinsky, Frida Kahlo, Marc Chagall, Piet Mondrian, and many more.
Picasso Museum. This museum has the largest collection of Picasso’s work.
Concorde. The largest public square in Paris, also listed in the Hall of Shame as a plaza that has “degenerated into a giant traffic tunnel.” You do not need to look for this square as you’ll probably happen on it through your regular sight-seeing adventure.
La Defense. See Paris through the lens of its business district. Delve into the district by seeing a panoramic view of Paris atop the Grand Arche and viewing the many modern art the district has to offer. Explore the vast André Malraux Park or the pedestrian footbridge, Japan Bridge.
Musee de National du Moyen Age (Hotel Cluny). Once a 16th-century mansion built by the abbots of the Cluny monastery, now a museum of medieval arts and tapestries. Most important work of art in the museum is the The Lady with the Unicorn, a series of tapestry.
Jewish Art and History Museum. A museum about the 2000 year history of the Jewish presence in France. It opened in 1998 in Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, a mansion in the Marias quarter of Paris.
Opera Garnier. 19th century architecture celebrated for Chagall’s ceiling dome.
Giverny Garden. Monet’s home from 1883 to 1926, the subject of his many paintings and study of the changing seasonal lights that are seen today in Musee l’Orangerie. It’s about a 2-1/2 hour train ride to the garden. Purchase tickets in advance. Make sure it is open before you go.
Jardin des Tuileries
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Arc de Triomphe
Practical Travel Guide to Paris
Spotlight - Paris’ Urban Design
Certainly one of the unique aspects of Paris is its streetscape, with its carefully planned network of grand and linear boulevards emanating like spokes from various central hubs, such as the Arc de Triomphe. The wide boulevards are typically lined with the distinctive 5-6 story cream-colored limestone apartment buildings with small wrought-iron terraces and mansard roofs that still represent over 60% of Paris’s total building supply. Depending on your aesthetic preferences, this hub-and-spoke street and building pattern —dating to the mid-1800s—is either elegant and harmonious, or monotonous and repetitive! Originally designed for horses and carriages, but of course now dominated by scooters and automobiles (and the occasional brave cyclist), the streets and particularly the wide boulevards such as Avenue Des Champs-Elysees, can become unpleasantly noisy with traffic congestion, marring the tourist’s idyllic expectations of non-stop charm and conversational street cafes. It can be a jarring experience, though to be sure the side streets are quieter and easier on the nerves—which may influence your hotel decisions. The various squares framed by these streets are much larger than the cozy piazzas of Italy, for example, and some with a predominance of concrete and impervious surface, such as the Place De La Concorde, now entirely given over the automobile. On the other hand, the careful street planning has facilitated Paris’s famous and elegant parks and gardens.
This distinctive urban fabric can be traced back to a specific time (1848) and a unique individual (Georges-Eugene Haussmann) who was tasked by Napoleon III with solving the growing problem of poverty and lack of sanitation in Paris’s most densely packed urban center. Between 1831 and 1846—a mere 15 years—Paris’s population exploded by 33%, from 750,000 to a million. Although the situation in Paris was especially acute, many European cities at the time faced similar conditions with a growing urban population in tight and overcrowded spaces affording little light, ventilation, or room for the increasingly popular street car. Some cities pursued various solutions. In Barcelona, for example, an entirely new district was created (the Eixample—the Expansion), outside the old city, with an entirely different type of street and building pattern that placed a premium on open spaces, landscaped gardens, and public transportation. Hausmann pursued a more radical strategy, essentially razing old Paris by removing over 12,000 medieval structures, starting over with his vision of wide boulevards that predominates to this day.
Hausmann’s transformation certainly improved the increasingly intolerable living conditions of mid-19th century Paris. Whether something crucial was lost in Hausmann’s vision of uniformity and linearity—particularly with the advent of automated vehicles—is open for debate, and probably depends on your urban aesthetic. If you’re interested in seeing what was lost, there is one remaining neighborhood that still exists in its pre-Hausmann condition, and that is the Marais district which for various reasons escaped Haussman’s razing. It is worth visiting both as a look back to medieval Paris, with its maze of cobblestone streets and boutique shops, and for such destinations such as the Victor Hugo Museum, the Hotel de Ville, the Shoah Memorial, and the Museum of Jewish Art and History.
