Florence: The Other Side of the Arno River, the Oltrarno
Ponte Vecchio, view from the Uffizi Gallery.
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Introduction
I just returned from Florence, where I was gathering insights for the upcoming Destination Guide to be featured here shortly. I had an extraordinary experience exploring the often overlooked but fascinating south side of the Arno River, also known as 'Oltrarno.' While the northern side of Florence proudly showcases iconic landmarks like the Duomo and the Uffizi Gallery, I absolutely found the southern side equally captivating. This lesser-explored area includes sites like the Pitti Palace, the lush Boboli Gardens, the artistically profound Brancacci Chapel, and the panoramic Piazzale Michelangelo. In this post, we'll cross the famed Ponte Vecchio, meander through the Vasari Corridor's history, and dive into the heart of Florence's Oltrarno, discovering the stories and culture that lie beyond the river.
Pitti Palace and the Medici Legacy
I took a tour of the Pitti Palace and the Boboli Gardens through Get Your Guide and it did not disappoint. The tour explored the history of this palace.
The Medici's Acquisition of the Pitti Palace
The Pitti Palace, originally built for the ambitious banker Luca Pitti in the mid-15th century, was intended to rival the Medici's residence, which at that time was at the Palazzo Vechhio. However, Luca Pitti's fortunes dwindled, and after his death, the unfinished palace was sold in 1549 to Eleonora di Toledo, the wife of Cosimo I de' Medici, the Grand Duke of Tuscany. This acquisition was more than a property transaction; it symbolized the Medici's consolidation of power and influence in Florence. Under the Medici, the palace expanded significantly, signifying the Medici's unrivaled status.
View of Pitti Palace from the Boboli Garden. The obelisk and the basin at the center of the amphitheatre of the garden.
Choosing the South Side of the Arno River
The decision to establish the Pitti Palace and the Boboli Gardens on the south side of the Arno River was visionary for that time. The northern side of Florence, though culturally and politically significant, lacked extensive green spaces and was heavily urbanized. In contrast, the south side offered vast expanses of land ripe for creating an extensive garden. This move was not just about seeking space for a garden; it was a statement of power and wealth, showcasing the ability of the Medici to transform and cultivate land as they desired. The choice also signified a turning point in Florentine urban development, highlighting a shift in attention and resources towards the Oltrarno area.
The Pitti Palace became their main residence and where they entertained and greeted other politically significant figures.
The Statue Gallery. In the Medici time, the gallery was part of the grand loggia overlooking the Boboli garden.
The Pitti Palace Today
The Pitti Palace now serves as a museum, housing several important collections and galleries. The palace complex includes the Palatine Gallery, the Royal Apartments, the Gallery of Modern Art, the Museum of Fashion and Costume, Treasury of the Grand Dukes, and more, each offering a unique glimpse into various aspects of historical and artistic significance. On this post, I’ll cover the Palatine Gallery and the Royal Apartment.
Artistic Treasures within the Pitti Palace
The Palatine Gallery
The Palatine Gallery, with its opulent rooms and extensive collection, is a highlight of the Pitti Palace. Works by Raphael take a place of pride, with paintings such as "La Velata" and "Madonna del Granduca" showcasing his mastery of form and expression. The gallery also boasts significant works by Titian, including the sensuous "La Bella" and the striking "Magdalena Penitente."
Beyond these, the Pitti Palace houses an array of works by other Renaissance masters. Visitors can admire paintings by Caravaggio, known for his dramatic use of light and shadow, and works by Rubens, with his dynamic compositions and rich color palettes. Works by Boticelli, Fra Filippo Lippi, Tintoretto, and others are also present. The collection offers a comprehensive overview of Renaissance art, showcasing the evolution of artistic styles and techniques.
The "Table of the Muses" is another amazing exhibit. This exceptional piece showcases the intricate craft of semiprecious-stone inlay, known as “comiso,” a distinctive Florentine art form. Originating in the 1500s, this complex technique involves carefully piecing together stones of varying colors and sizes to form exquisite designs. Even today, this art is both practiced and taught. The table, a prominent feature in the Castagnoli Room, is a project that began in the 1830s and stands as a testament to this enduring tradition.
Table of Muses
Another highlight is Napoleon's Bathroom. This historical feature dates to the period of Napoleon Bonaparte's influence over Italy, including Florence. In the late 18th and early 19th centuries, Napoleon’s authority stretched across much of Europe, with Tuscany falling under his sway. Florence was seized by French forces in 1799, and Tuscany was handed over to the French-controlled Kingdom of Etruria in 1801. By 1807, Tuscany was directly annexed by France, making Florence a regional capital.
Napoleon’s Bathroom in the Pitti Palace
Under French rule, the Pitti Palace underwent significant renovations, including the addition of Napoleon's Bathroom, which was part of the refurbishment to suit the needs of the new French administration and their entourage.
The Royal Apartments
The Royal Apartments, once the living quarters of the Medici family, are adorned with lavish furnishings and artworks. Among these are masterpieces by Botticelli, known for his graceful figures, and Giorgio Vasari, whose work in the apartments reflects the political aspirations of the Medici.
The Boboli Gardens
Eleonora di Toledo: The Driving Force Behind the Gardens
Eleonora di Toledo, born into the Spanish nobility and married to Cosimo I de' Medici, brought with her not just political alliance but also a refined taste influenced by her upbringing. Raised amidst the lush landscapes of Spain, Eleonora developed a deep appreciation for nature and outdoor spaces. Her vision for the Boboli Gardens was driven by a desire to replicate the serene and natural environment she cherished in her youth.
Eleonora sought to create a sanctuary where her children could thrive amidst nature, away from the confines of palace walls. The gardens were envisioned as a place of education, leisure, and natural beauty, offering the Medici children a nurturing and stimulating environment.
View of the Pitti Palace from near the Statue of Abundance at the top of the garden.
Origins and Designers of the Boboli Gardens and a Reflection of Eleonora’s Vision
The Boboli Gardens, an exemplary model of the Italian Renaissance garden, are as much a work of art as the sculptures they contain. The gardens were initially designed in the 16th century by Niccolò Tribolo, who laid the groundwork for this expansive outdoor space. After Tribolo's death, the project was continued by celebrated architects and landscapers like Giorgio Vasari, Bartolomeo Ammannati, and Bernardo Buontalenti. Their vision and craftsmanship transformed the gardens into a symbol of Medici power and Renaissance creativity. Under Eleonora's instructions, the Boboli Gardens blossomed into a magnificent example of Renaissance landscape architecture.
The Concept of Symmetry and Its Implementation
A defining feature of the Boboli Gardens is the meticulous symmetry in its layout, reflecting the Renaissance ideal of order and harmony. This symmetry is evident in the carefully planned walkways and strategically placed sculptures. The gardens are designed to provide a visual harmony from every angle, with each section offering a unique yet balanced integrated perspective.
The Amphitheatre and Performances
One of the most notable areas within the Boboli Gardens is the amphitheatre, located close to the palace. Initially constructed as a simple pit to gather building materials for the palace, it was later transformed into an open-air theatre. This "arena" became a space for courtly entertainments, including plays, concerts, and grand ducal ceremonies. The amphitheatre is famed for its first-ever opera performance, held in 1589, which marked a pivotal moment in the history of operatic art. The presence of an Egyptian obelisk and ancient Roman basin at its center underscores the Medici's appreciation for classical antiquity.
The obelisk situated in the amphitheatre of the garden. You can still see the marble bleachers beyond the obelisk.
Artistic and Natural Elements
The gardens are dotted with a range of sculptures from various periods, including Roman antiquities and Renaissance works. These sculptures blend seamlessly with the natural elements, creating a living gallery that changes with the seasons. The elaborate fountains, like the Neptune Fountain and the Fountain of Bacchus, add to the gardens' allure, offering a spectacle of artistic and hydraulic engineering.
Brancacci Chapel
West of the Pitti Palace, about 20 minutes’ walk, you’ll find the Brancacci Chapel, nestled within the Church of Santa Maria del Carmine. This chapel is small and only accepts approximately 10 visitors each day. Reservation is required. We highly recommend reserving a ticket and taking a tour. My own experience serves as a cautionary tale: despite visiting in mid-January, a typically less busy time, I found tickets were completely sold out. So, remember to reserve your tickets early to avoid disappointment.
Historical Background of the Brancacci Chapel
The Brancacci Chapel is a destination for art aficionados seeking to immerse themselves in the masterpieces of Masaccio and Masolino. It was constructed in the late 14th century. The chapel’s frescoes, painted in the early 15th century, vividly depict scenes from the lives of St. Peter and St. Paul, showcasing the Masaccio’s and Masolino’s revolutionary use of perspective and light. These frescoes were commissioned by Felice Brancacci, a wealthy Florentine merchant and politician, who intended the chapel to serve both as a family chapel and a testament to his status and piety. The choice to dedicate the chapel to St. Peter, the first pope and a key figure in Christian history, was significant. It reflected the Brancacci family's alignment with the Church's authority and their own aspirations within Florentine society.
Unfortunately, we were not able to obtain tickets for the Brancacci Chapel, much to our disappointment. But the church is free and open.
Artistic and Cultural Significance
The Brancacci Chapel's frescoes marked a turning point in Renaissance art. They moved away from the Gothic style's flat, two-dimensional figures, embracing a more naturalistic and three-dimensional approach. These frescoes became a study subject for future Renaissance artists, including Michelangelo and Leonardo da Vinci, who were drawn to the chapel to learn from Masaccio's innovative techniques. The Brancacci Chapel thus played a crucial role in the development of Renaissance art, serving as a classroom for the next generation of artists.
Piazzale Michelangelo: Florence’s Panoramic Viewpoint
On the east side of the Pitti Palace, is the Piazzale Michelangelo. Take a walking tour here to learn more about the history and discover this hilltop square offering panoramic vistas that capture the essence of Florence’s timeless beauty.
The Creation of Piazzale Michelangelo
Piazzale Michelangelo, designed by the architect Giuseppe Poggi, was built in 1869 as part of major urban renewal plans for Florence when it became the capital of the newly united Italy. The intention was to celebrate the artistic legacy of Michelangelo. Poggi designed a terrace with a breathtaking view of Florence and its surroundings – a fitting tribute to the Renaissance master.
View of the Duomo from Piazzale Michelangelo
Architectural Design and Michelangelo's Influence
The piazza is adorned with bronze copies of Michelangelo's works, including the famous David. The choice of these particular pieces was deliberate, showcasing Michelangelo's Florentine legacy. The piazza itself is a testament to the city's admiration for Michelangelo, positioning it as a place of reflection on the artist's impact on Florence's cultural and artistic heritage.
Bronze copy of David
The Unrivaled Views of Florence
Piazzale Michelangelo offers one of the most iconic views of Florence. From this vantage point, visitors can see a sweeping panorama of the city - from the Duomo and Palazzo Vecchio to the Ponte Vecchio, the Arno River, and the hills of Tuscany beyond. The view encapsulates the essence of Florence, blending its rich history with its breathtaking beauty. It's a favorite spot for both locals and tourists, especially at sunset, when the city seems to glow under the fading light.
Bridging the Sides: Ponte Vecchio and the Vasari Corridor
Ponte Vecchio: A Bridge Through History
Ponte Vecchio
I ended my tour by crossing back to the northern side of the Arno River though the Ponte Vecchio. The Ponte Vecchio, or "Old Bridge," is more than just a crossing over the Arno River; it's a symbol of Florence's endurance through the ages. Dating back to Roman times, the bridge has been rebuilt several times, most notably after a flood in 1345. What makes Ponte Vecchio unique is the array of shops built along it, a practice dating back to the medieval era. Originally occupied by butchers, the bridge now houses jewelers, art dealers, and souvenir sellers, maintaining its historical role as a commercial hub.
Crossing Ponte Vecchio to get back to the Northern side of the Arno River.
The Vasari Corridor
The Vasari Corridor is an elevated passageway that connects the Palazzo Vecchio, their old residence and later used as the town hall, with the Pitti Palace, their new residence on the other side of the Arno River, passing over the shops of the Ponte Vecchio. Constructed in 1565 by Giorgio Vasari for Cosimo I de' Medici, it served as a private walkway for the Medici family, allowing them to move between their residence and the government palace securely and discreetly. This architectural feat not only exemplifies the ingenuity of Renaissance engineering but also symbolizes the Medici's power and influence over Florence.
The Vasari Corridor begins at the Palazzo Vecchio. The corridor's entrance is in the western corridor of the Uffizi Gallery, where it then winds its way over the shops of the Ponte Vecchio. This unique feature is a testament to the ingenuity of its design, seamlessly integrating the passageway with the existing structures on the bridge. After crossing the river, the corridor continues through the neighborhood of Oltrarno, snaking its way through the Church of Santa Felicita, where the Medici family could attend mass unseen from the public, and finally connecting to the Pitti Palace.
The Vasari Corrido is above the Ponte Vecchio walkway with windows, providing privacy and security.
As a covered walkway, it provided privacy and security for the ruling family, a feature that was particularly valuable during turbulent political times. Over the years, the corridor evolved into an art gallery, housing a significant collection of paintings and portraits, further signifying the Medici's patronage of the arts.
The Corridor's Artistic Legacy
The Vasari Corridor evolved into a unique art gallery, housing a vast collection of self-portraits by prominent artists throughout the ages. Though it has undergone several changes and renovations, the corridor remains a significant testament to the Medici's patronage of the arts and their impact on the cultural landscape of Florence. It was being renovated during my visit, and slated to open sometime in the Spring of 2024, but from what I understand, that timeline keeps getting delayed.
CONCLUSION: THE OTHER SIDE OF THE ARNO RIVER, THE OLTRARNO
In this journey through Florence's less-traveled paths, I've uncovered a world rich in history, art, and natural beauty. From the grandeur of the Pitti Palace and the lush tranquility of the Boboli Gardens to the panoramic views of Piazzale Michelangelo, the south side of the Arno River offers a unique and enriching experience. These landmarks, along with the historic Ponte Vecchio and the Vasari Corridor, weave a narrative that speaks to the heart of Florence's identity. Whether you're a first-time visitor or a seasoned traveler, the south side of the Arno River is a must-visit, promising a journey filled with discovery and awe at every turn.
Happy Travels!
Zellie, your forever a traveler.
